Advice on Aqua panel job

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
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I have been asked to price this aquapanel-ed ceiling. I have done thin coat on hardibacker before but always small area’s not involving joints and usually the bigger panels.

I seem to remember run with Scissors giving a spec for aquapanel, something to do siliconing the joints? This job is quite a distance from me and will be labour only so I want to get it right first visit. Anyone know of the spec for this ceiling?
 
View attachment 52516

I have been asked to price this aquapanel-ed ceiling. I have done thin coat on hardibacker before but always small area’s not involving joints and usually the bigger panels.

I seem to remember run with Scissors giving a spec for aquapanel, something to do siliconing the joints? This job is quite a distance from me and will be labour only so I want to get it right first visit. Anyone know of the spec for this ceiling?
Knauf exterior Joint tape and knauf exterior joint filler prior to base coating
 
This particular customer mentioned joint taping but this is new to me.

Thanks for the pm Tom81 but I cannot download the attachment so I will google if.
 
Hi Rigsby
Wez is correct- that is the Aquapanel Indoor Board- those stickers are only put on the Aquapanel Indoor boards sold through Wickes, suggest They get swapped to outdoor boards before you render them for external use....

Indoor boards more lightweight, not tested for freeze thaw in external environments ...

if you take them down carefully, they can be reused in a bathroom application for tilebacking
 
Anyway - leave a 3 to 5 mm gap all around board edges, fill the gap with Knauf Aquapanel Joint Filler Grey, spread this joint filler 50 to 60 mm either side of the joint and embed Knauf Aquapanel Tape 100mm into the filler over the joint and scrape excess away leaving the tape covered
Allow to dry and then basecoat and mesh and finish as thin coat wall ..

give me a call tomorrow to discuss further if needed 07918766577
Or rlord@knauf.co.uk

Richard Lord
Knauf
Aquapanel Technical
 
BTW - you can get Aquapanel Exterior / Outdoor in the smaller 1200x900mm size. Should be same price per m2

But more common to find the 2400x900 board though.. but difficult in ceiling soffit application
 
You can, if a small area, cut a basecost mesh to 100mm wide strips and use the basecoat as the joint filler and tape with strips of mesh

....,saves buying more products and being left with material over...
 
Hi Rigsby
Wez is correct- that is the Aquapanel Indoor Board- those stickers are only put on the Aquapanel Indoor boards sold through Wickes, suggest They get swapped to outdoor boards before you render them for external use....

Indoor boards more lightweight, not tested for freeze thaw in external environments ...

if you take them down carefully, they can be reused in a bathroom application for tilebacking

Looking closer at the photo you posted... it even says Aquapanel Indoor printed on the board....

Be careful if you just render over these in external application... more lightweight board will be more likely effected by environment and wind loads... sorry
 
Looking closer at the photo you posted... it even says Aquapanel Indoor printed on the board....

Be careful if you just render over these in external application... more lightweight board will be more likely effected by environment and wind loads... sorry

Thanks for this information. Its a job Paul Clamp (remember him?) has passed my way. The job is in Harrogate so 60 mile plus away from me and I am working out of a Mini Countryman boot atm hence labour only.

I am passing Harrogate on my way to a job in Scotland so maybe tape on the way there and bead up, base coat on the way back.

But this customer was looking for it being taped up for painting, can it be taped on the way up and a tight skim over on the way back like you would in dry lining? Thinking of being on my own and the thin coat will need lots of covering up and that could be two trips.

This is if they decide to accept the facts that it is boarded wrong!
 
I will see how to customer wants to go ahead with this, she will be reading these replies if she can.

Thanks for the info everyone.
 
Thanks for this information. Its a job Paul Clamp (remember him?) has passed my way. The job is in Harrogate so 60 mile plus away from me and I am working out of a Mini Countryman boot atm hence labour only.

I am passing Harrogate on my way to a job in Scotland so maybe tape on the way there and bead up, base coat on the way back.

But this customer was looking for it being taped up for painting, can it be taped on the way up and a tight skim over on the way back like you would in dry lining? Thinking of being on my own and the thin coat will need lots of covering up and that could be two trips.

This is if they decide to accept the facts that it is boarded wrong!

Not spoken to Clampy for a few years... he still at Gr33n?

yeah - tape and joint on way up... the taoe and joint application sits on the surface is the board... NOT Like a tapered plaster board... It will look like a chess board if just painted!

as a minimum, would recommend a 5mm basecoat and mesh layer to the t&j’d boards, this gives a weathertight finish, then paint if they don’t want a textured finish

im sure a man of your experience knows not to over work a basecoat, it usually brings the grits to the surface... just apply, let pull a bit, then flatted and leave
 
View attachment 52516

I have been asked to price this aquapanel-ed ceiling. I have done thin coat on hardibacker before but always small area’s not involving joints and usually the bigger panels.

I seem to remember run with Scissors giving a spec for aquapanel, something to do siliconing the joints? This job is quite a distance from me and will be labour only so I want to get it right first visit. Anyone know of the spec for this ceiling?
Matie mesh / revlane for me
 
@Runswithscissors
jesus rich.. youve posted more tonight than a whole year! lol

@Rigsby i usually cut up the system mesh and use the basecoat to prescrim all joints then render and mesh.

some systems spec acrylic mastic between joints amd then pre scrim joints
I’m on a Wetherby one at the moment. Acrylic mastic and scrim joints with base coat. Prefer the sound of how Rich advised though.
 
I'd be weary why it's all ready been boarded, the same school of thought with plastering, I'm not keen on going over other people's boarding.
 
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