Straight or Curved plastering on adjoints?

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madhav999

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hi forum, we have had extension done. On the ceiling we have two joints of plaster boards (ignore the arrow). We were hoping to have this plastered with clean straight lines to give box look however this has been plastered with curves. Can anyone with expertise advise on this?

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As James said; I always offer the client the option. It could be rectified but would be expensive and a bit brutal.
I only know this because I did one once, viewed the job with client , he went with curved after I showed him some stock photos. Wife hated it, I had to hack out the curve, and reskim with a splay. Was a nightmare to do
 
madhav999 said:
hi forum, we have had extension done. On the ceiling we have two joints of plaster boards (ignore the arrow). We were hoping to have this plastered with clean straight lines to give box look however this has been plastered with curves. Can anyone with expertise advise on this?

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Take 30 years of experience that I'm giving you for free.

Your plasterer has given you the best finish though I appreciate a discussion should have taken place.

1 in 100 of these would look bang on the very slightest mm discrepancy stands out like a sore thumb and looks shite.

Paint it be happy and get on with the rest of your life at a glance his work looks good and I would of advised the same finish.
 
zombie said:
Take 30 years of experience that I'm giving you for free.

Your plasterer has given you the best finish though I appreciate a discussion should have taken place.

1 in 100 of these would look bang on the very slightest mm discrepancy stands out like a sore thumb and looks shite.

Paint it be happy and get on with the rest of your life at a glance his work looks good and I would of advised the same finish.
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Exactly what zombie said...work looks good, long splayed lines are a nightmare
 
Notoriously difficult to get long splays looking sharp , I've used stop beads in the past but not been entirely happy. Best results, and this was fairly recently, after some advice from the man, myth , legend that is @scottie5 . Using a versa trowel (adjustable twitcher) I've had some lovely results on some very long splays
 
The trouble is chippies level the top side as usual , driven by tiles laying flat or flooring ( that they lay ) and expect plasterer to make good ( once they've had your money )
wood is rarely same depth even a slight twist can add on to "some " joists giving considerable irregularities next to straight ones
 
Just had a closer look at the photos, I'd of definitely recommended a curved angle, proof is in the paint. Get a mist coat on it, I personally don't think you'll bother much not having the splays
 
bof said:
The trouble is chippies level the top side as usual , driven by tiles laying flat or flooring ( that they lay ) and expect plasterer to make good ( once they've had your money )
wood is rarely same depth even a slight twist can add on to "some " joists giving considerable irregularities next to straight ones
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In 30 years I've never seen 1 bang on no matter who or how it's been approached.

Sure some are passable and better than others but never ever bang on.

Those that think they have done 1 that's bang on the worse people you want to do them because I guarantee I'd stand under them and look up and laughter at what they think is great and talked the punter into.
 
zombie said:
Disagree

I've skimmed more new builds than you've taken photos of your tea
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Disagree.
Lads doing this and he used stops. Some double some single. I.ll post results.
Thing I.m also worried about with stops is will you get a hair line crack
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John j said:
Disagree.
Lads doing this and he used stops. Some double some single. I.ll post results.
Thing I.m also worried about with stops is will you get a hair line crackView attachment 48562View attachment 48564
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Post me address I will come and have a look and I will pay the remainder of your mortgage if its A1.

Stop beads is 100% not the way yes it will crack you need adjustable internals opened and set on a laser line but obviously you know that as your confident it's going to be bang on.
 
zombie said:
Post me address I will come and have a look and I will pay the remainder of your mortgage if its A1.

Stop beads is 100% not the way yes it will crack you need adjustable internals opened and set on a laser line but obviously you know that as your confident it's going to be bang on.
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Never said that . It's looking good for a kid whos been at it a few years. A plaster will allways pull another plasters work though
 
John j said:
That's why I though. I said do one side . If it cracks just caulk it. Looks nice and straight though
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Caulks s**t will just crack again a month later. Had success with one bead but can still crack, defo not two though...unexpandable metal on metal on a backdrop of all that expanding and contracting wood
 
John j said:
That's why I though. I said do one side . If it cracks just caulk it. Looks nice and straight though
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Stop bead will not make it straight you will still follow contour and will 100% crack you need an adjustable internal specialist bead.

You can have that tip for free coz I like you ish/maybe nah do I f**k!
 
John j said:
Disagree.
Lads doing this and he used stops. Some double some single. I.ll post results.
Thing I.m also worried about with stops is will you get a hair line crackView attachment 48562View attachment 48564
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You tape under joint , bed stops and dub out plasterboard discrepencies , fair enough on a short run but I once followed a drunk chippy for a customer who wanted straight lines and boarded out square , he lost 4 " off width of a room like that one lol
 
Stop beads make no difference at all, I normally rule out the ceiling line first, on both the ceiling and splay line , but like @zombie said , it’s near nigh impossible to get it bang on , it’s hard enough getting a splay wall straight, maybe I’m just sh it
 
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Ain't we all itching to go back , I think @Danny posted this to stop the cxnt calling post the other day lol
 
Nothing to stress about, when painted and furnished will look great. We rarely look up when in a room and there is more to worry about at the moment than the lines of a ceiling. If the ceiling was perfect in your eyes you would have to find something else to stress over. Pop the corn.
 
tapit said:
Nothing to stress about, when painted and furnished will look great. We rarely look up when in a room and there is more to worry about at the moment than the lines of a ceiling. If the ceiling was perfect in your eyes you would have to find something else to stress over. Pop the corn.
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Your like @gps With a massively lower IQ
 
I always try to curve these if possible,I tell customers it's never gonna be perfectly straight but they think you can work miracles,I've tried a few methods that work well but still it's never perfect,I've strung a line before checked it for level then see how straight it is then just used my eye as a guide to work to the line,I've tried stop bead I've put batons up to work to and tried the laser level if a customer wants it doing this way the price goes up
 
Olican said:
Notoriously difficult to get long splays looking sharp , I've used stop beads in the past but not been entirely happy. Best results, and this was fairly recently, after some advice from the man, myth , legend that is @scottie5 . Using a versa trowel (adjustable twitcher) I've had some lovely results on some very long splays
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evevn stop beads follow the board... which follow the rafters...
 
:rolleyes:
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dunno if you can see the lines here but that was done about 2007 and the last time i attempted to skim em straight..

i did once make the oppostite amighty f**k up though and backed out a tight roll with board addy cos it was all i had and got straight on it with finish.... wasnt until last 2 trowels i realised what id done...
 
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