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ruddez

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just renovated the inside of an outbuilding now the customer wants the outside rendered in parex which i have never used before but i am sure i can get the hang of it,but theres a few questions i would like to ask,the building is a half concrete sectional garage so would renda grip and using fibre mesh be ok to prevent any cracking of the joints,and the other half of the building is a concrete block add on which have got existing render/dash which is painted,,so would the bellcast have to come off to make a more flat surface to put the beads on,also again renda grip and then lay on 2 coats of parex,cheers
 
Don’t be silly render grip...
2 coats of render on top of painted render ... your miles off, swerve it, and get someone that’s familiar with the system in.
 
whats wrong with renda grip thats what it for,i should have said i am discing the painted render first as well for key
 
I was going to comment earlier but was watching the match.

Owls is right, and I’ll go one step further and say you’re setting yourself up for a massive fall.

Sectional garages are a big no no. Mesh will do absolutely nothing. It will crack, you’ll end up with egg on your face.

The painted dashing, you might get lucky and it might take but more than likely you’ll be getting a call in 12 months saying it’s fell off.

There’s nothing at all with the way you are approaching the job that is correct, in fact if I wanted it to go tits up I’d be hard pushed to find a more certain way than the one you’ve put forward.
 
correct me then,thats why i am asking for advice,what is the right approach,cheers
Painted render needs high poly base and mesh coat ! Sectional panels can’t be rendered it will fail the mesh won’t prevent cracks !
 
just renovated the inside of an outbuilding now the customer wants the outside rendered in parex which i have never used before but i am sure i can get the hang of it,but theres a few questions i would like to ask,the building is a half concrete sectional garage so would renda grip and using fibre mesh be ok to prevent any cracking of the joints,and the other half of the building is a concrete block add on which have got existing render/dash which is painted,,so would the bellcast have to come off to make a more flat surface to put the beads on,also again renda grip and then lay on 2 coats of parex,cheers

Over the painted area you'll need to use Parex Parinter incorporated with TV10 mesh - youll need to ensure it's not an oil based paint first. You'll then also have to do a pull of test to be 100% sure. This will then be followed by the Monorex system

Do you need to build the 'concreted' section out level with the painted area? And is it sectional concrete or block? I had a similar call about this yesterday and it turned out to be blockwork

If it is blockwork, I would advise again a meshed system and the basecoat being Monogris E to build out, followed by Monorex. You may also still require Microgobetis as a priming agent.

How many m2 is the project?

It isnt a straight forward system and experience is required using this product.
 
correct me then,thats why i am asking for advice,what is the right approach,cheers

Your not asking for advice. Your asking others how to do the job. There’s a difference.

Tell your customer that your asking on a Internet forum how to tackle his job and his reaction will tell you all you need to know.

Don’t rob the poor bugger of his money.
 
Could it not be rendered if you created expansion joints where the sectional joints are. Wouldn’t look the best but can’t see why it wouldn’t work.
 
yes they are 600mm concrete sectional panels and only the front to render and thats 2.4 m wide by 2.0 high with a 1.2m x 1.2m window in it, the rest of the rendering will be over painted dashing,but anyway thanks for advice
 
what about....parinter for the basecoat over the paintwork and Parmurex (with lanco latex mixed in)laid over micro gobetis 3000 over the concrete.
anyone agree?
 
what about....parinter for the basecoat over the paintwork and Parmurex (with lanco latex mixed in)laid over micro gobetis 3000 over the concrete.
anyone agree?
Would need mongris not parmurex and it wouldn’t work pal !
 
Your not asking for advice. Your asking others how to do the job. There’s a difference.

Tell your customer that your asking on a Internet forum how to tackle his job and his reaction will tell you all you need to know.

Don’t rob the poor bugger of his money.
But harsh pal he’s asking for advise on how to do the job can’t see the problem
 
Over the painted area you'll need to use Parex Parinter incorporated with TV10 mesh - youll need to ensure it's not an oil based paint first. You'll then also have to do a pull of test to be 100% sure. This will then be followed by the Monorex system

Do you need to build the 'concreted' section out level with the painted area? And is it sectional concrete or block? I had a similar call about this yesterday and it turned out to be blockwork

If it is blockwork, I would advise again a meshed system and the basecoat being Monogris E to build out, followed by Monorex. You may also still require Microgobetis as a priming agent.

How many m2 is the project?

It isnt a straight forward system and experience is required using this product.
What I said put in a professional way lol
 
But harsh pal he’s asking for advise on how to do the job can’t see the problem

It’s not though is it, let’s be honest.

I’m sure the guy is a decent bloke, but his opening post doesn’t fill anyone with confidence.

There’s a fine line between giving someone advice and then giving them a step by step guide on what to use and how to use it.

Would you let a tradesmen work on your property and charge you knowing the night before he was on XYZ forum for a pep talk and instructions

Sometimes you just have to tell the customer it can’t be rendered because it’s not suitable, I did it yesterday on a garden wall with decking above, the guy was basically putting the £1500 in my hand but the area would have failed within 12/18 months so I told him no. I told him to clad it, it would last longer and he’d get better value for money.

The other 3 quotes he had were willing to render it. He is going to clad it and was very grateful for the honest advice.

You’ve got to think about the customer. How many jobs have you priced up or seen where they’ve had someone who didn’t quite know what they were doing and f**k*d it up. While the first few are funny you do start to feel sorry for the poor bastards handing over £0000s for what they think is professional job but turns out a practice run.
 
It’s not though is it, let’s be honest.

I’m sure the guy is a decent bloke, but his opening post doesn’t fill anyone with confidence.

There’s a fine line between giving someone advice and then giving them a step by step guide on what to use and how to use it.

Would you let a tradesmen work on your property and charge you knowing the night before he was on XYZ forum for a pep talk and instructions

Sometimes you just have to tell the customer it can’t be rendered because it’s not suitable, I did it yesterday on a garden wall with decking above, the guy was basically putting the £1500 in my hand but the area would have failed within 12/18 months so I told him no. I told him to clad it, it would last longer and he’d get better value for money.

The other 3 quotes he had were willing to render it.

You’ve got to think about the customer. How many jobs have you priced up or seen where they’ve had someone who didn’t quite know what they were doing and f*kd it up. While the first few are funny you do start to feel sorry for the poor bastards handing over £0000s for what they think is professional job but turns out a practice run.
I get what your saying pal I just answer honestly and you could say we have saved the client by advising the guy not to render the sections ? But do agree with your point about losing jobs to cheaper quotes I have two now that couldn’t wait for us and that have been ripped off and left a poor job should I help the client and put the work right or not as they should of waited ?
 
Mate, my phones full of shite jobs.

In between the ingoldmells holiday snaps and the shagging grannies the scaffolder sends me.

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i phoned the rep yesterday and he told me what most have told me,you cant put monorex on concrete panels,you cant use eml,you cant go over painted surface unless you use parinter,i asked about why i cant use sbr slurry his answer was only paint will stick to paint and it wont work,which is a load of rubbish,so i said i would put a scratch coat of sand/cement on first with fibre mesh,leave to dry for a week and then monorex over it,he told me you cant put monorex over sand/cement because monorex is to strong to go over sand/cement render,so everything we intended to do we cant according the rules,as the client is still adamant he wants the monorex finish to match the house, we are going ahead as we got no other options due to the backgrounds, so we are going ahead with discing, rendagrip/mesh,plastic beads and monorex,the client understands the circumstances if it goes all wrong he is paying me anyway,i am old school and rendered a few sectional garages and gone over sound painted surfaces with sand/cement and discing and sbr/ mesh method over the last 30 yrs and no problems of come backs,i only asked about parex because i am not familiar with it,i suppose the ones who give the harsh answers on the forum are the ones who know the answers by reading the manufactures instructions,so when a question comes up on the forum they jump straight in with the theory to look good, you got understand to gain experience you got to make mistakes,thanks all
 
It seems you’ve already made your mind up despite being told by a few decent guys and Parex themselves that it is wrong.

It sounds like someone’s wafted £900 under your nose and your having it regardless of what’s right or wrong. Personally I wouldn’t but I’m not you.

There are other options available to your customer that will see him get far, far better value for money. I’d certainley advise your customer and get something in writhing to cover your backside.
 
You make mistakes while working with experienced guys who will help you out and put it right.

Not practicing on someone’s property and taking good money off them for the privilege

I’m not as experienced as you guys, but I’m not shy of learning, and always practice on my own property first, if I make mistakes learn from it and practice on my property again
 
Let the customer know of the risks by email and off no warranty because of said risks then let the customer decide.

I wouldn’t entertain the job myself.
 
i have offered him other options but he is stubborn as he knows better, if i had my own way i wouldnt bother but i feel because he has other work for me, and the customer is adamant he wants the monorex finish, as i have explained to him we are not doing it properly, but that is why i have asked for advice,but he told me it wont be my fault if it goes wrong,i know it sounds stupid but thats the way he is, he wants it to match the house and if it dont it dont,at the end of the day a shed he wants rendered, and not in a million years would i attempt this sort of job on a house,
 
i have offered him other options but he is stubborn as he knows better, if i had my own way i wouldnt bother but i feel because he has other work for me, and the customer is adamant he wants the monorex finish, as i have explained to him we are not doing it properly, but that is why i have asked for advice,but he told me it wont be my fault if it goes wrong,i know it sounds stupid but thats the way he is, he wants it to match the house and if it dont it dont,at the end of the day a shed he wants rendered, and not in a million years would i attempt this sort of job on a house,
Well, you've told him, get everything in writing though and crack on.
 
i phoned the rep yesterday and he told me what most have told me,you cant put monorex on concrete panels,you cant use eml,you cant go over painted surface unless you use parinter,i asked about why i cant use sbr slurry his answer was only paint will stick to paint and it wont work,which is a load of rubbish,so i said i would put a scratch coat of sand/cement on first with fibre mesh,leave to dry for a week and then monorex over it,he told me you cant put monorex over sand/cement because monorex is to strong to go over sand/cement render,so everything we intended to do we cant according the rules,as the client is still adamant he wants the monorex finish to match the house, we are going ahead as we got no other options due to the backgrounds, so we are going ahead with discing, rendagrip/mesh,plastic beads and monorex,the client understands the circumstances if it goes all wrong he is paying me anyway,i am old school and rendered a few sectional garages and gone over sound painted surfaces with sand/cement and discing and sbr/ mesh method over the last 30 yrs and no problems of come backs,i only asked about parex because i am not familiar with it,i suppose the ones who give the harsh answers on the forum are the ones who know the answers by reading the manufactures instructions,so when a question comes up on the forum they jump straight in with the theory to look good, you got understand to gain experience you got to make mistakes,thanks all
Don't be a dick, why to I need to look good, I've been on here for ten years and In all that time i couldn't have cared less wether I look good or not.
I've given you an honest answer, if your not familiar with the system give it a miss.ive been using scratch renders 20 years plus, I've seen so many bad render jobs that have been completed by fellas that have given it a go.
 
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