Lime ceiling follow up

Members online

Pozzolans indeed are speeding things, but not in the way you are imagining it. They are used mainly with air lime due to the time it takes to set and cure. This type of lime is very vulnerable in the first hours and days after. Great care should be taken to get it right and pozzolans alone will not guarantee success no matter what. What pozzolans do is giving you the start you need. Mixed with water they don’t react, but mixed with lime - big time. How reactive pozzolana is depends on the grain size- the smaller the biger surface for reaction. They need to be used with great care because they change the lime structure and reduce permeability and flexibility. Every bagged render on the market contains silica and alumina. I have started a test yearly this year to see if I am right to think today’s render does not come close to the traditional lime plaster. The first test wasn’t conducted 28 days and the second 6 months after. Favourite so far is the mix with vulcanic ash and second is with argical

View attachment 27564View attachment 27565
keep the info coming !
 
Thanks Norman,will have a look later:tanguero:
Very interesting this lime it’s new fad in the game you heard it first ! Im definitely jumping on this lime bandwagon down with the gypsum everyone is always moaning about there products jump on board lads. Lol
 
Very interesting this lime it’s new fad in the game you heard it first ! Im definitely jumping on this lime bandwagon down with the gypsum everyone is always moaning about there products jump on board lads. Lol

In 20 years ive never been ased to apply a lime mix on any job internal or external maybe its a regional thing?
 
In 20 years ive never been ased to apply a lime mix on any job internal or external maybe its a regional thing?
Don’t think it’s a regional thing my theory is based on trends 10 years ago renders were no were near as popular these old buildings need more repairs and lime is the way forward.by the way I’m not experienced in lime but I’m learning!
 
Don’t think it’s a regional thing my theory is based on trends 10 years ago renders were no were near as popular these old buildings need more repairs and lime is the way forward.by the way I’m not experienced in lime but I’m learning!

By regional i mean the build of the properties we all get to work on.

That said nobody up here would pay for the labour costs involved with lime against other cheaper systems!
 
In 20 years ive never been ased to apply a lime mix on any job internal or external maybe its a regional thing?
It’s selling thing zombie, you have to sell it to the customer. Price is putting people of . With all the info and case studies I have come across I realise traditional Lime plastering done right is way superior than any modern plaster /render now days . Was thinking way back parex is the richest in lime, hence my favourite, and they will give you let’s say 10 years. The bag is full with additives to help quick and secure set , but that has its cost of course, where lime needs 5+ years to get its full strength and after that can get only better . I have mentioned before the period and strength limes can achieve. Cement based mixture can do that in half time and after 5 years, if lucky, they start deteriorating- way way shorter life than lime, but in reality suits everyone- cheaper and keep us all running. The case studies are pointing at the hot lime and cement used for the old buildings as the biggest mistake ever and they have learned from it. So , question now is how do you convince the op that if his house has been built with hot lime decades ago ,doesn’t mean it’s the best thing for him to do now?
 
Case study live for you:

Hot lime render with multi finish on top - modern plastering . s**t over s**t! No other words that can describe it. This will be hacked off and will take some pictures to back up all my concerns about using hot lime.
F6D4CE37-7B3C-48A3-B576-C768C6F3F4ED.jpeg
 
Right, just for the record is not fun at all ! f**k**g chisel broke , dusty as f**k and quite dangerous. A big lump, nicely rounded , about I m rolled down the stairs and me running after it looked like cheese running competition. Thank f**k I got it before it hit the customers car! He asked what hapened and I said nothing, just moving stuff around :frio:.
9987C33B-EA59-4587-BF45-79B7274EFBE3.jpeg
42CF7663-30AD-4940-9362-BA954D49476A.jpeg

And ppe is a must ;)
E674C6D8-F070-443E-821D-98E2FDB9376E.jpeg
 
And here is the reason why I don’t use hot/quick lime . Can’t be mixed right! And I am not talking about the hair distribution or lime , which with a good mixer can be overcome.Its about the unslaked lumps of lime and the lime in general which is far away from putty and nhl. And if the lime is not slaked properly and left to mature you can’t expect the quality putty and nhl will give you.

Clear example of lumps of hair and lime. Also lime bleach, which is more likely to see it on the surface, not right in the middle like here . But that’s hot lime for you!
501533BD-237D-4F4A-B0CF-D197761D72CD.jpeg
3C10ED35-F84C-4C18-AB32-92C43B3D5035.jpeg
24CC7B88-3F0A-4F74-BFF8-A1DA92D51976.jpeg
A5507D92-214A-4055-95A8-4913F50DB40E.jpeg
781D83B6-8B3C-4C64-BE14-5148B62FF5D9.jpeg
09505BD7-0C1A-4E03-B742-F8635845B6C0.jpeg
11665CF7-F73B-458B-8F2E-8012D2632085.jpeg
 
All of the above will lead to complete failure, not in distant future. As I have mentioned it before it starts with cracks and finishes as sectioned plaster
07960AE4-BCAD-4314-BBDE-87B60DE549C1.jpeg
CE4C6DC7-135A-4C45-9714-EB65B00085A5.jpeg
F650F54E-69BB-4293-BFEF-4711FBCA04EA.jpeg
 
Doing the ceiling with wood wool boards and hemp lime , finished with R50 . Walls with Bauwer light.

we are now carrying out a listed hotel renovation. wood wool boards on the ceilings, Secil adhere Eco Cork with full mesh. 2nd coat Secil Argamassas at 3mm thickness ,to a light texture finish to receive a 1mm finish of Regency.
 
Doing the ceiling with wood wool boards and hemp lime , finished with R50 . Walls with Bauwer light.

Hi. Am considering using the exact same materials as you in a renovation project in Lancaster. Would be really interested to hear your thoughts/experiences of use and comparisons. Specifically, how hard is Bauwer light in terms of taking knocks and bangs over a standard gypsum plaster. What was your experience in terms of depth of layers, how many layers and time to dry?

Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask...!
 
Hi. Am considering using the exact same materials as you in a renovation project in Lancaster. Would be really interested to hear your thoughts/experiences of use and comparisons. Specifically, how hard is Bauwer light in terms of taking knocks and bangs over a standard gypsum plaster. What was your experience in terms of depth of layers, how many layers and time to dry?

Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask...!
The right place is the one where you’ll get an answer ;)
Bauwer light is one of the best, if not the best , materials I have come across. It’s very soft, but then you have Bauwer finish with mesh over it and r50 , in my case, which makes it way way better than any gypsum plaster. Actually there is no room for comparison. The ceiling has resisted overnight leek with huge 1.2m dripping spot next day and all that is left now is smal discolouration here and there, but thats not a problem as the paint will sort it out.
If your house hapens to get submerged for 6 months, can give the same guarantee for the ceiling, but the wall with Bauwer light will need probably only refreshing paint, that’s all.
For the internal walls, separating rooms etc, you need at least25mm Bauwer light and by the time is finished you’ll add another 5-10mm which I think is plenty. External walls,internal with external contact, 40mm Bauwer light. It’s a long winded process, but time wise is quicker than traditional Lime plastering. Not the cheapest on the market, but defo the best!
The whole system is 4 coats- spatter, Bauwer light, Bauwer finish and finishing coat, which can be different. Drying time 3-5 days, but achieving full strength-1-2 months.
 
Hi. Am considering using the exact same materials as you in a renovation project in Lancaster. Would be really interested to hear your thoughts/experiences of use and comparisons. Specifically, how hard is Bauwer light in terms of taking knocks and bangs over a standard gypsum plaster. What was your experience in terms of depth of layers, how many layers and time to dry?

Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask...!
Forgot to ask are you a customer or trade? You need to find someone who knows what is doing or this will cost you a fortune. If trade- practice on a wall and make sure you understand the product before you continue or disaster will strike you down. And to avoid all this all you have to do is keep posting take the banter, don’t mention politics and bulk your posts until you have access to the private section, then you’ll see my review and guidelines on Bauwer light. Now , since we got that of the way..... did you vote stay or leave ? :p
 
The right place is the one where you’ll get an answer ;)
Bauwer light is one of the best, if not the best , materials I have come across. It’s very soft, but then you have Bauwer finish with mesh over it and r50 , in my case, which makes it way way better than any gypsum plaster. Actually there is no room for comparison. The ceiling has resisted overnight leek with huge 1.2m dripping spot next day and all that is left now is smal discolouration here and there, but thats not a problem as the paint will sort it out.
If your house hapens to get submerged for 6 months, can give the same guarantee for the ceiling, but the wall with Bauwer light will need probably only refreshing paint, that’s all.
For the internal walls, separating rooms etc, you need at least25mm Bauwer light and by the time is finished you’ll add another 5-10mm which I think is plenty. External walls,internal with external contact, 40mm Bauwer light. It’s a long winded process, but time wise is quicker than traditional Lime plastering. Not the cheapest on the market, but defo the best!
The whole system is 4 coats- spatter, Bauwer light, Bauwer finish and finishing coat, which can be different. Drying time 3-5 days, but achieving full strength-1-2 months.

Really helpful post - thank you. It turns out I came to the right place...

In my case, I need a 30mm build so figured a 25mm Bauwer light plus Bauwer finish would be ideal. Why do you recommend another finishing coat or are you separating the membrane coat and final finish coat, both of which are in Bauwer Finish?

Potential dumb question - What is R50?

Lastly - how long before you paint?
 
Forgot to ask are you a customer or trade? You need to find someone who knows what is doing or this will cost you a fortune. If trade- practice on a wall and make sure you understand the product before you continue or disaster will strike you down. And to avoid all this all you have to do is keep posting take the banter, don’t mention politics and bulk your posts until you have access to the private section, then you’ll see my review and guidelines on Bauwer light. Now , since we got that of the way..... did you vote stay or leave ? :p

Customer/highly motivated DIYer. Have never attempted plastering as it seems to all so easily go to wrong - particularly as you're time pressured. You can't just start/stop and take your time as readily as any other task when you're learning for the first time. My current room has external corners with staff beads and a feature stone fireplace to work with so I'm looking for someone to do this job but would certainly consider giving this stuff a go in a more straightforward (read:small) spot in the house.

Have posted a job for this in the forum section. Got one lovely chap who I'd be delighted to go with (pending references) but he's not free until mid-jan and job is ready to go now. Want it sorted by xmas.

RE: Stay or leave - the more important question is what your opinion is on immigration in the UK... (that's right, I see you and I raise you...)

:maraca:
 
Forgot to ask are you a customer or trade? You need to find someone who knows what is doing or this will cost you a fortune. If trade- practice on a wall and make sure you understand the product before you continue or disaster will strike you down. And to avoid all this all you have to do is keep posting take the banter, don’t mention politics and bulk your posts until you have access to the private section, then you’ll see my review and guidelines on Bauwer light. Now , since we got that of the way..... did you vote stay or leave ? :p

Also, did anyone consider that naming it the 'private section' sounds all a bit euphemistic? I'm just glad you specified it as 'the' rather than 'my'. :LOL:
 
Really helpful post - thank you. It turns out I came to the right place...

In my case, I need a 30mm build so figured a 25mm Bauwer light plus Bauwer finish would be ideal. Why do you recommend another finishing coat or are you separating the membrane coat and final finish coat, both of which are in Bauwer Finish?

Potential dumb question - What is R50?

Lastly - how long before you paint?
Bauwer system is spatter-light-finish-GB1 as finishing coat. Someone like me who can chuck any s**t on the wall will get creative and make tweaks and make sure is up to the standard. R50 is bagged eco lime . I am in the process to offer and clay finish with it . R50 doesn't need painting if you are after white finish . For the clay finish you can chose the colour and aggregate before hand so no painting at all.
 
The right place is the one where you’ll get an answer ;)
Bauwer light is one of the best, if not the best , materials I have come across. It’s very soft, but then you have Bauwer finish with mesh over it and r50 , in my case, which makes it way way better than any gypsum plaster. Actually there is no room for comparison. The ceiling has resisted overnight leek with huge 1.2m dripping spot next day and all that is left now is smal discolouration here and there, but thats not a problem as the paint will sort it out.
If your house hapens to get submerged for 6 months, can give the same guarantee for the ceiling, but the wall with Bauwer light will need probably only refreshing paint, that’s all.
For the internal walls, separating rooms etc, you need at least25mm Bauwer light and by the time is finished you’ll add another 5-10mm which I think is plenty. External walls,internal with external contact, 40mm Bauwer light. It’s a long winded process, but time wise is quicker than traditional Lime plastering. Not the cheapest on the market, but defo the best!
The whole system is 4 coats- spatter, Bauwer light, Bauwer finish and finishing coat, which can be different. Drying time 3-5 days, but achieving full strength-1-2 months.

Weirdly enough I'll be doing almost the exact same thing as Xeres at some point in the new year. Well, in a mid rather than end terrace and with the back of the house needing a new render too. Not too far from Lancaster either, small world...

My initial guess was to go 100mm thick with external render at the back, then 25mm internally. Then just 100mm internally at the front, is that ridiculous?

For the internal without external contact I didn't realise that Bauwer light would be needed, what's the need for an insulated plaster on internal walls? It's already going to be a decent sized job, potentially the whole house 110m2 of floor space maybe 300m2 of wall space (at a guesstimate), I was hoping for something a bit cheaper for the internal walls without external contact!

Apologies for sniping into this thread!
 
Weirdly enough I'll be doing almost the exact same thing as Xeres at some point in the new year. Well, in a mid rather than end terrace and with the back of the house needing a new render too. Not too far from Lancaster either, small world...

My initial guess was to go 100mm thick with external render at the back, then 25mm internally. Then just 100mm internally at the front, is that ridiculous?

For the internal without external contact I didn't realise that Bauwer light would be needed, what's the need for an insulated plaster on internal walls? It's already going to be a decent sized job, potentially the whole house 110m2 of floor space maybe 300m2 of wall space (at a guesstimate), I was hoping for something a bit cheaper for the internal walls without external contact!

Apologies for sniping into this thread!
It all sounds good. Bare in mind it’s not cheap . There are some alternatives with lime .Inside walls still conduct heat.
 
Top