Do I need to key the surface of Vandex to plaster?

RETEP

New Member
Simple question I think. Apparently you can plaster straight onto Vandex. Now, I'm prepping the wall and applying the vandex myself and intend on getting in a plasterer to finish. The trouble is, I don't have a plasterer yet to ask the question: Do I need to leave a keyed surface for them to plaster onto?

The wall is interior brick and the prep involves flattening the surface and filling any holes with Rend Aid (which I will key some how) then apply the vandex. I've never used vandex before so any advice is welcome. Can't find any videos explaining how to use it in this context. Cheers.
 
Not used this one tbh but any new products I normally just read and follow what it says on back of the bag
:chica:
 
Render the wall
Apply the vandex with a brush,2 coats alternate ways
Render again so the vandex is sandwiched between the 2 coats
Skim wall


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Render the wall
Apply the vandex with a brush,2 coats alternate ways
Render again so the vandex is sandwiched between the 2 coats
Skim wall


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you render the wall first wont the damp push off the render making the vandex a waste of time ??
I've only ever seen and done vandex applied straight to the substrate , trowelled on , sponge finish .
 
If you render the wall first wont the damp push off the render making the vandex a waste of time ??
I've only ever seen and done vandex applied straight to the substrate , trowelled on , sponge finish .


Most if not all tanking systems require a render first prior to the application
 
If you render the wall first wont the damp push off the render making the vandex a waste of time ??
I've only ever seen and done vandex applied straight to the substrate , trowelled on , sponge finish .

Your supposed to put a SBR slurry bonding coat under the first coat of render to stop it delaminating.
Going over the render with the the tanking product is best Practice for 2 reasons
-you maximise product coverage.
- you minimise failure due to poor coverage if the walls aren't flat, joints are covered etc.



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Your supposed to put a SBR slurry bonding coat under the first coat of render to stop it delaminating.
Going over the render with the the tanking product is best Practice for 2 reasons
-you maximise product coverage.
- you minimise failure due to poor coverage if the walls aren't flat, joints are covered etc.



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A splatter coat left to dry or apply first render coat on tacky sbr buddy?
 
Most if not all tanking systems require a render first prior to the application
Been 15 + years since I last done and used it so might of changed since then, even had there tech guy out , but I'll bow to your knowledge on this now
 
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