weber chalk

Members online

Total: 438 (members: 6, guests: 432)

Share this page

S a plastering

S a plastering

Private Member
got a big bungalow to do in this the ront is just normal bricks both the sides an back new block
I phoned weber tech last week an he said rendaid the lot first no mesh accept stress points we are handballing this no machine manageable walls windows take a lot of it away its just got me thinking is this what you lads do when handballing it on cheers
 
madmonk said:
got a big bungalow to do in this the ront is just normal bricks both the sides an back new block
I phoned weber tech last week an he said rendaid the lot first no mesh accept stress points we are handballing this no machine manageable walls windows take a lot of it away its just got me thinking is this what you lads do when handballing it on cheers
Click to expand...
I'm new to this mono malarkey, did use rend aid on job last year,old brick work, tbh I not sure it's needed on all of it but suppose if they say it is you best too, tbh it's lovely to trowel on and would help loads when handballing anyway, just the added cost that's a bitch
 
Normally I'd rendaid the old brick and leave the block...weber tech told me to put mesh in the rendaid but some guys on here say not to.
 
Weber chalk picks up quick, I wouldn't be doing any big areas by hand this time of year now with decent temps,because there's a risk of loosing it with dry edges and its donkey work.
there's easier ways of earning a living.
 
owls said:
Weber chalk picks up quick, I wouldn't be doing any big areas by hand this time of year now with decent temps,because there's a risk of loosing it with dry edges and its donkey work.
there's easier ways of earning a living.
Click to expand...
Would small areas be ok though?
 
Also what's people's view on doing it in 2 separate goes on different days like I scene jobs and sometimes think why the big rush to do it in one, say on for example a standard 3 bed detached thinking it's a struggle to get 15 mm by hand is it a problem to just plop beads on get a good coverage of say 7mm with all the mesh in slightly earlier, key it and then pop back fill out next morning and scratch up later that day ? Seems a bit less stressful maybe on some jobs with just a couple of dudes or even on own
 
Vincey said:
Also what's people's view on doing it in 2 separate goes on different days like I scene jobs and sometimes think why the big rush to do it in one, say on for example a standard 3 bed detached thinking it's a struggle to get 15 mm by hand is it a problem to just plop beads on get a good coverage of say 7mm with all the mesh in slightly earlier, key it and then pop back fill out next morning and scratch up later that day ? Seems a bit less stressful maybe on some jobs with just a couple of dudes or even on own
Click to expand...

NO. have a workforce big enough to cover the area in one day.
 
I use to have 4 big tubs that would hold 6 bags each knock the lot up and off you go


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Vincey said:
Also what's people's view on doing it in 2 separate goes on different days like I scene jobs and sometimes think why the big rush to do it in one, say on for example a standard 3 bed detached thinking it's a struggle to get 15 mm by hand is it a problem to just plop beads on get a good coverage of say 7mm with all the mesh in slightly earlier, key it and then pop back fill out next morning and scratch up later that day ? Seems a bit less stressful maybe on some jobs with just a couple of dudes or even on own
Click to expand...
I've seen it done they had no issues did it myself years ago using krend silicone mono kept blocking the gun when turned off so had to scratch it got a bigger genny went on fine
 
I did my early hand apply jobs on a mono scratch coat and it turned out ok. But you have to do all of it because of drying out colours.

But a coat of rend aid then a scratch coat will be too thick imo. I would want at least 8-10mm plus scrape for a top coat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top