Rising damp

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flynnyman

Well-Known Member
working at my nephews house which has had the dampproofing experts in at one point, what's gone wrong and how would you fix it? This has been done once and I will show you what's gone wrong and it's embarrising after what has been done and spent, school boy error :)
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I would say it's very rare this s**t gets pulled off and like I've said before it doesn't fix anything it just hides it.
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Don't forget to vent the chimney at the top too flynny, you can always drill some holes into the stack at an upwards angle then tap some 22mm copper pipe into there if you don't wanna disturb what ever is topping it off now
 
9 times out of 10 when I go to a job like this it's the flaunching cracked or missing then poor ventilation as you've said
 
This is typical of what a lot of these damp firms are doing, they don't ever find the cause or even look for the cause they go for the membrane one. There are quite a few knocking about there is the drilling the bricks and injection, raking the joints and using a cream, drilling out and filling with plugs, taking out a perfectly good dpc and installing a modern one. There is the blue brick method of removing the bottom course and replacing and maybe install a cavity tray. All them methods are unnecessary in my opinion, I have fixed hundreds of damp jobs without any of them methods with just solving the problem and rendering with sand and cement. A lot of them methods are very costly and are a massive cost and disruption, this has got to be one of the biggest cons in the building game and is messing up a lot of properties.
 
I've gone over this s**t a few times that diy'ers have installed. It's something that can sweat imo
 
flynnyman said:
This is typical of what a lot of these damp firms are doing, they don't ever find the cause or even look for the cause they go for the membrane one. There are quite a few knocking about there is the drilling the bricks and injection, raking the joints and using a cream, drilling out and filling with plugs, taking out a perfectly good dpc and installing a modern one. There is the blue brick method of removing the bottom course and replacing and maybe install a cavity tray. All them methods are unnecessary in my opinion, I have fixed hundreds of damp jobs without any of them methods with just solving the problem and rendering with sand and cement. A lot of them methods are very costly and are a massive cost and disruption, this has got to be one of the biggest cons in the building game and is messing up a lot of properties.
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Seriously this is a good thread you've started, i have a question, why do you just use sand and cement though? And would you use lime in the mix too ? Also your thoughts on dri coat?
 
When I done some damp profing I used sharp sand and cement way some do it and way I was shown
 
flynnyman said:
This is typical of what a lot of these damp firms are doing, they don't ever find the cause or even look for the cause they go for the membrane one. There are quite a few knocking about there is the drilling the bricks and injection, raking the joints and using a cream, drilling out and filling with plugs, taking out a perfectly good dpc and installing a modern one. There is the blue brick method of removing the bottom course and replacing and maybe install a cavity tray. All them methods are unnecessary in my opinion, I have fixed hundreds of damp jobs without any of them methods with just solving the problem and rendering with sand and cement. A lot of them methods are very costly and are a massive cost and disruption, this has got to be one of the biggest cons in the building game and is messing up a lot of properties.
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Amen father
 
Vincey said:
Seriously this is a good thread you've started, i have a question, why do you just use sand and cement though? And would you use lime in the mix too ? Also your thoughts on dri coat?
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I only use lime outside in my top coat, I've always used sand and cement and never had any problems, plus it's a lot cheaper and better.
 
Pagey said:
When I done some damp profing I used sharp sand and cement way some do it and way I was shown
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Was looking at sand today in Manchester at one yard I used years ago. It was more like soft sand compared to the stuff I get in cleethorpes which is really gritty.
 
flynnyman said:
Was looking at sand today in Manchester at one yard I used years ago. It was more like soft sand compared to the stuff I get in cleethorpes which is really gritty.
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Agreed Flynn. Quality of sand is dropping. I posted a thread on sand shortages. This is a side effect.
 
flynnyman said:
Did you post a video with it? It is fascinating what is happening around the world because of a shortage of sand.
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Yeah it was a short video of sand gangsters smuggling sand around the world. It's surreal. Yes there's plenty of sand in the world. But not a lot of it is suitable for construction. Too round!
 
Vincey said:
What about dri coat? Would you not use it simply because of the cost of it ?
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Your not getting it mate, I've just told you what works and your trying to break it. This is exactly what I'm talking about the simple solution is fix the cause of the water then put it back to the way it was, fair enough some properties didn't use a cement but mixed correctly and your background prepped you can't go wrong. The problem is usually a human error and usually made worse by someone adding something that shouldn't be there.
 
flynnyman said:
Was looking at sand today in Manchester at one yard I used years ago. It was more like soft sand compared to the stuff I get in cleethorpes which is really gritty.
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Sand is a pain in the arse to pick especially if you start overthinking it,I was taught use sharp sand dose up with the water proofer but I've seen many just devil float it before skimming but because I like it nice flat no hollows I rub it up like render then devil float it cut back ect I'm not a fan of only doing the 1.5 high skimming I'd rather do whole wall if I'm honest
 
I done a job while back and if all the places to get decent sand at that time was wickes, some of the best sand I've ever used fluke that one cos normally the render sand is like ballast
 
vfr12 said:
Why is that flynny? For me limeis on the top of the list, if you can afford it.
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I've never used it for the inside because I don't think movement is a massive issue inside because the walls are usually smaller than the outsides and I also like the colour it dries :)
 
Thought ye was meant to dot n dab on to that membrane. Personally I always tell some one to get a damp expert in as it has a habit of coming back and biting you I ass. This way you can pass book
 
flynnyman said:
I've never used it for the inside because I don't think movement is a massive issue inside because the walls are usually smaller than the outsides and I also like the colour it dries :)
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You are right. I was thinking more in breathable/ weight/ antibacterial kind of way. For me that's unbeatable.
 
vfr12 said:
You are right. I was thinking more in breathable/ weight/ antibacterial kind of way. For me that's unbeatable.
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I've never had any problems so I've not changed it, if the brickwork is shocking I usually put the TV10 mesh in the scratch coat, it's only pennies and usually gets me the job when I quote. I need to buy an old scratcher the spokes type because I use my float for my scratch coat and it catches the mesh which is annoying.
 
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