Can I use regular 15mm TE plaster board in a kitchen or Bathroom?

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doomageta

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Hi All,

Newbie here. Just got an old house which i am trying to renovate before moving in at as little cost as possible. I have been offered some free sheets plasterboard and was wondering if their use was limited. I know there are vapour resistant and heat resistant (well more than the average 12.5mm ones) boards out there but, was wondering if it would be absolutely crazy for me to use regular 15mm TE boards for my tiny new kitchen and tiny new bathroom?

Any thoughts welcome as i would like to save money but, obviously if it will definitely bring on more problems in the future then i would rather know that as well.
By the way i hate lath and plaster walls. Just had to redo some electrics in this stuff and it was/is a nightmare!!!

Thanks for the help.

Dooma
 
if you put them up, the bathroom and kitchen will simultaneously combust when you close the front door. be warned
 
No Problems with using them at all. they are easier to work with and stronger. Be aware though that you can't dot and dab with vapour (foilback) boards. they are for screwfixing only.
 
Thanks guys that is great...i figured sarcasm was one of Nick's forte... ;)
Anyway, now that i know they are suitable would you advise dot & dab or building up a timber frame and screwing them onto it or screwing/fixing it directly onto the wall. Two major factors:
1- The wall they are to go on is a partition wall made of solid cement block which were very-very-VERY uneven (you know the stuff that crumbles) so i have applied one coat of mortar and rendered for smoother base
2- The kitchen is tiny (2.5m x 2.5m) so loosing the width of the timber on top of the 15mm depth of the board makes me want to cry

I initially planned to render the entire wall but, since i got these boards i figured i should use them.

Also should i replace all l+p walls if I have the chance or are they more solid than regular plasterboards (they do feel solid...until breached at least)

Thanks again.

I am even more up North than you WarriorUpNorth...all the way up to sunny Dundee. ^_^
 
ok thanks ^_^
Do i get double the abuse if i tell you i am french too!!!
Actually i have a few good mate in Donnie so i will take it on the chin...it is a fun place.

Now stupid question time...is D&D not a pain when you want to install recessed power sockets afterwards? Or do you have to use surface mounted boxes then? Or do you keep track of where you D&Ded? I suppose this one you work out with experience and i am ok with plastering but have not drylined before. Although i am aware of most ways to do it, i just cannot seem to pick one. Well D&D seems like the main contestant so far...

Thanks again. Next time I am in Donnie i will owe you one.
 
Get your electrics and back boxes chopped in (Known as first fix) then dab, if your fanning 15mm boards on then you may not have to chop your back boxes in , you would be pushing it a bit with retro fit boxes
 
If you get stuck mate send casper a e.mail he not that far from you , plasterer's a lot of bathrooms on hillside properties for some reason.:RpS_thumbup:
 
there is a thankyou and a reputation button , keep this under your hat, but the person with the most rep points at christmas gets an 80 gallon keg of ale off Danny the site owner sshhhhhhh
 
You want moisture resistant in the bathroom mate ( the green boards ) especially around the bath and shower..
 
And you don't need MR in the bathroom, shower should be tanked so that can go on anything as around the bath if tiled proper no probs.
 
Really..lol... actually M/R boards should be used around baths and showers, ideally tile backer board in the shower area, only time tanking is required is in a wetroom mate...
 
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