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Strange seeing that I’ve collected it

Gypsum is a natural product that’s mined

Yes because I’ve told folk what to do if they are having issues and it’s to much trouble, now I’ve managed to get a way that BG can try and identify issues by checking similarities in the batches. The folk who work in the plant are forever trying to identify any issues and genuinely want to...

when you’re getting issues with plaster send me a photo by dm with a brief description of the issues you’ve had. Bear in mind ”it’s s**t” ain’t no use by the way, the more details you send the more they will get out of it and look at ways to try and improve in the future. First time of trying...

It needs to be returned to the merchant that you purchased it from. Attach your contact details and an explanation of the issues you’re having along with the substrate you are covering. Ask them to arrange to have it tested please.

Should tile direct to mr board, h and by the way that’s a BG spec

NHBC nothing to do with BG

In bathrooms, but not wet areas The regs say It’s got to be a waterproof board such as Glasroc F

In a bathroom or kitchen but not in wet areas

They are moisture resistant not waterproof for wet areas such as showers etc. The regs also say that the boards should be sealed on the joints as well before tiling.

New regs coming in that stop mr board being used in shower areas, might have already come in on new builds, can’t remember tbh

It’s all about getting a balance, if they get everything done for them then why do anything yourself! Mix it up a bit, depending where the job is, sometimes they can’t get there but make it beneficial for them to think about getting their own transport to get to work.

No spec as such for a single skin wall, it’s more about the material and suction. No plasterer in their right mind would use a gypsum product on a single skin wall though.

But very true, Bonding should only be 8mm on grit ue to the weight.

Hardwall should not be used on grit, bonding is ok though.

Best tip you’ll get, don’t do it, just don’t

@Vincey The college part of an apprenticeship is the theory side of plastering and the NVQ is the practical side. He will be able to get by with his NVQ, get on sites and it will open doors for him in the future. The full framework of an apprenticeship will give him far more opportunities in the...

Good morning

Scrim only reinforces the joins but won’t stop it cracking. Paper tape allows the boards to move behind it so the cracks rarely show on the face

Plaster and plasterboards are inert, they do not move once they are set. The cracks will be caused be movement in the background or the boards were fixed incorrectly. It certainly sounds like the movement is coming from the joists.

No and it certainly doesn’t look like it’s going to be. Some places don’t stock it

Dab with a couple of nailable plugs in each board

I know I was right behind you

No but your balls smell

https://www.british-gypsum.com/documents/white-book/british-gypsum-wb-finishes.pdf Have a look a link, page 15 onwards for information but you should only tile direct to dri coat as a backing plaster.

if you‘ve not already seen it the DriWall adhesive is now being made at the plant in Leicestershire so it will change colour from grey to pink with no change to the performance of it. Don’t be surprised when you open the bags.

You can get contactless business cards, you can put on webpages, email etc and puts you straight in their contact list. Been impressed with the ones I’ve seen

It’s their decision & choice of what they sell, it’s their business just like when you’re self employed and turn jobs down which is your choice.

No idea I’m just a spread

Their choice & decision

Working time

Needs to dry before you can sand it

Ask the company that installed the system for their specification, then hand it to the plasterer and explain they must follow it. Takes any doubt out of what needs to be done and if it fails it’s straight back to the doc installers as it’s then their proble.

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/board-products/gyproc-moisture-resistant-125mm#technical-description

In bathrooms etc, areas of higher humidity. Shower areas can get wet so you need a waterproof board in that area.

But you’re my hero

Tape & joint

You know how to break a man’s heart.

Not a problem, did I mention that I’ve blocked your number

It’s made for small stuff, aimed at areas upto 10sq.

Use minimal water when troweling up, it’s got polymers in to allow crystal growth and aid adhesion and it can tear if to much water is used.

It’s pointless using mr board and then putting gypsum on the face of it. Having said that mr board is not the right board for shower areas, really should be glassroc

Always a good idea to test the sand, 100mm of fairly well compacted sand in a jar, give it a really good shake up and allow it to settle. If you’ve got more 10mm or more of fines on the top don’t use it.

I’ve no idea why you’ve been told dot & dab is a no no! Nothing wrong with it or with float & set using hardwall. All depends on what you want.

Made for tiling and waterproof so will need grit

Suction control is really important when plastering, to much or to little causes issues. I’d guess that you didn’t apply the grit thick enough so it allowed the moisture to be pulled in. Another thing to make sure you mix it up well before you start and every 10 minutes or so to make sure the...

This might help https://www.british-gypsum.com/technical-support/self-help-tools/faqs/what-centres-are-gypframe-gl1-lining-channels-gypframe-gl2-brackets-gypframe-gl9-brackets-and

It’s definitely not SBR

Its fine for that, I’d suggest letting it down to suit the substrate but don’t kill the suction

Only you will know when it’s ready, we are all different. When it feels like it’s ready give it 2 or 3 days then try it