K rend.
- Thread starter chris55
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Plasterers1StopShop
Well-Known Member
You should allow a day per mm of base coat for complete drying time. Obviously when its colder etc this could take longer
For example: 5mm Basecoat should be left for 5-7 days before T/C Application
Hope that helps
For example: 5mm Basecoat should be left for 5-7 days before T/C Application
Hope that helps
Thecraftyfox
New Member
Don't sponge the basecoat, use a darby trowel otherwise the fibres and polymers in the basecoat tear as it is trying to dry...
Plasterers1StopShop
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I read your post completely wrong!
Your base should be left as smooth and flat as possible otherwise it will show through on your T/C - some people use a sponge float to help finish the product, this is normally a good way to finish base coats. Don't use too much water as it can affect the strength of the product.
Hope that is a better reply!! Sorry
Your base should be left as smooth and flat as possible otherwise it will show through on your T/C - some people use a sponge float to help finish the product, this is normally a good way to finish base coats. Don't use too much water as it can affect the strength of the product.
Hope that is a better reply!! Sorry
plasterjfe
Private Member
base for texture coats needs to be flat ass glass. the texture is only 1.5mm thick coat on the top and blemishes in the base will show througfh when you float up the texture.
polymer adhesive renders are stick and hard to get to grips with you need alot of experience before you get it right. working with someone who knows what to do is a must.
apply the first pass around 4/5mm and use a notched render trowel to comb it through for even coverage. lay the mesh gently into that and then flatten just so it hides in the surface but still just at the surface. let it firm and then have another pass over the top about 1mm it should finish just off the trowel or spat
you need to work fast very fast
polymer adhesive renders are stick and hard to get to grips with you need alot of experience before you get it right. working with someone who knows what to do is a must.
apply the first pass around 4/5mm and use a notched render trowel to comb it through for even coverage. lay the mesh gently into that and then flatten just so it hides in the surface but still just at the surface. let it firm and then have another pass over the top about 1mm it should finish just off the trowel or spat
you need to work fast very fast
Plasterers1StopShop
Well-Known Member
What John has said is perfect.
I'm only mentioning the sponge Float as we have come across a lot of guys who find this easier.
Most manufacturers say you can sponge but don't add too much water as it weakens the basecoat.
As John said, a notched trowel and a spat is the best way to finish it
I'm using The Plasterers Forum Mobile App
I'm only mentioning the sponge Float as we have come across a lot of guys who find this easier.
Most manufacturers say you can sponge but don't add too much water as it weakens the basecoat.
As John said, a notched trowel and a spat is the best way to finish it
I'm using The Plasterers Forum Mobile App
plasterjfe
Private Member
I have notching trowels from Germany made for render. Also spats and Swiss trowels with render coat measured notch sizes. Got the Swiss of Ryan.
Keeps it flat as you say. All our lads use em on Ewi
Denman
New Member
Nice one....
Dr.B
Active Member
Where do you buy your notched trowels??? I've just been using the tilers trowels.
User___removed
Well-Known Member
Have you ever sprayed the bucket coat on rigs?
I've got the gear to do it but have'nt found the right job to try it as yet
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
No, not yet.
plasterjfe
Private Member
Get em from Ryan or Germany online 10x10 cut leaving a 5mm coat
Tilers trowel is not the right gauge
Tilers trowel is not the right gauge
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